At-home Microneedling? Why You Need to Leave it to the Professionals

Microneedling has become a non-invasive alternative to other anti-aging methods like injectable Botox, fillers and laser treatments to create more supple looking skin. I myself am a huge fan of the treatment and love carrying this out on clients in my Skin & Permanent Makeup Clinic. A series of tiny needles penetrating the skin causes microinjury to the epidermis, this stimulates the fibroblasts within your epidermal layers by sending the message to your cells to start the process of synthesising collagen to promote fresh, new healthy skin cells on the surface. An excellent treatment to fight the signs of aging with amazing results when carried out correctly and correct aftercare given.

Skin Professionals and Dermatologists use derma rollers and Microneedling devices on clients to increase elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and help with pigmentation/discoloration. Professional treatment can be costly as they require a course of treatments for optimal results, but are the safest way to benefit from Microneedling (Also known as Collagen Induction Therapy)

The more collagen in the skin, the more youthful it appears. With this collagen-boosting trend on the grow, this has paved the way for the dreaded derma roller in the market. Worse still, I've seen them advertised for merely a couple of pound each when bought in bulk. The one pictured at the end of this article was priced at £4. Cautious of these? You should be! Saving hundreds of pounds on a course of treatments for a product substituted at £4 in price? Sounds to good to be true...

That's because it is. The popularity of these beauty-fad rollers is dangerously on the rise, being sold on more, more platforms for cheap prices... but to what cost to our skin?

There is a reason Aesthetic Professionals and Dermatologists alike are trained to perform this particular treatment, it is an invasive technique that must be carried out correctly for the treatment to be able to work. Otherwise it is just unnecessary damage being caused to the stratum corneum (top layer of skin) It is a Level 4 based treatment that needs to be carried out by an advanced skin or medical professional and must be treated as such.

A question that is becoming more frequent at Luxederm by customers is can they use Luxederm products with a derma roller. This horrifies me. Unless they are actually trained in the procedure and protocols within the use of and have an effective derma roller of a decent depth, I urge them to throw it away, and book an appointment to see a professional, to ensure they haven't done any lasting damage to their skin. A consultation at my clinic will determine what treatments can work best for your skins objectives and what treatments you can be safely carrying out at home.

The efficacy of skincare products can be increased by a Microneedling treatment, but only when carried out by a professional and never should be recommended for at home use, even though we are limited to at home treatments at the minute. Serums are very much encouraged after Microneedling, but do speak to your skin specialist when receiving the treatment at what they advise. Our Radiance Recovery Serum is a great serum packed with hyaluronic acid to deeply hydrate the epidermis post-treatment but you will be advised about homecare at your initial appointment.

Now we are not able to visit salons and have our regular treatments, it is pushing more and more people towards these ghastly at-home devices. These things can be extremely detrimental and not just in my opinion, they aren't recommended by Dermatologists either. As you would imagine, you will not find a "cheap fix" to an otherwise costly course of treatments that will work effectively. Especially not at such a cheap price.

“When carried out by an experienced technician it really addresses elasticity and wrinkles like nothing else,” said New York City-based celebrity facialist Joanna Vargas (worked with Sofia Coppola and Maggie Gyllenhaal.) “It is supposed to increase collagen production, erase fine lines and wrinkles and improve uneven pigment. Derma rolling can also be used to penetrate high tech ingredients such as stem cells and epidermal growth factor.”

But Dermatologists are highly against using the tools at home because they say the needles aren’t big enough to penetrate the proper holes into skin, so you’re essentially damaging your face for no reason.

And without proper sterilisation, derma rollers can harbour harmful bacteria causing infections, breakouts and can even trigger certain skin conditions such as rosacea, which causes redness and bumps on the face; eczema, itchy inflammation spots; and melasma, brown patches/pigmentation of the skin. Not to mention permanent scarring.

“Your risk of scarring or creating a problem is there, but you don’t get a benefit. Unless you’re using a sterile or disposable roller, it can grow bacteria and yeast and you’re going to have that penetrate the skin,” Dr. Doris Day (Dermatologist at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York City)

New York-based makeup artist Carolina Dali tried a derma roller and felt that it did nothing but dry up her skin. “The roller left my skin feeling and looking no different than using a safer alternative like an exfoliator,” says Dali, who also got a professional Microneedling treatment done and said it was much more effective. “When I tried it at my Dermatologist's office, my skin was glowing for days on end. I found that I needed less moisturiser and it absorbed faster in my skin.”

Doris Day MD agrees that an in clinic visit is your best bet, and suggests consulting with a doctor before even considering using a derma roller at home. “I’m not saying never to do it, but from what I’ve seen available now, there’s nothing that’s safe and reliable. It’s not made for home use just yet,” says Day. “You can get scarring; you can get bumps under the skin; you can get infections -- some of that can be permanent.”

You may see some celebrities promoting these products- they aren't skin professionals either. Please make informed choices when attempting to treat your skin at home, and make sure you take advise from an Aesthetic or Medical Professional if you are going to attempt aesthetic invasive treatments such as derma-rolling at home.

Alternatively, if you are in Northern Ireland book an skin consultation at our clinic in Lurgan, County Armagh) by contacting us on our homepage and see is Collagen Induction Therapy (Microneedling) suitable a treatment for your skin type and needs. I perform many skin treatments at my clinic and would be pleased to welcome new clientele to our ever growing skin clinic.